OM3Ti - one of the best SLRs
Olympus started off the OM series with a bunch of M-SYSTEM items like the M-1film camera, a series of lenses and accessories. Over the years, Olympus expanded the OM series. The odd numbered series are the mechanical cameras while the even numbered series are the ones with electronic shutters. Each of them is lovely but then among all, the OM3Ti holds a legendary status. It is also the camera that still fetches quite a lot of money if you are interested in getting one.
So what makes it so special apart from that beautiful grey finish?
Olympus launched the OM3Ti in a bundled set (with the OM Zuiko 35-80mm F2.8 ED) in the early 90s with a production number of approximately 4000 to 6000 units. Due to the very high listed price, the sales did not go well even though it's the last chapter of the OM series. People tend to buy the OM4Ti as it is much cheaper with similar performance.
The 3Ti and the 4Ti feel quite similar in the hands and they are both robust. The major difference is that the 4Ti has an electronic shutter which if it fails, your camera can only shoot in B mode or 1/60 shutter speeds. The 3Ti, on the other hand, is a completely mechanical camera so you can shoot at all speeds even if the batteries is used up. The cameras both support spot metering and the metering system is quite accurate, especially when you compare them with the M-1 or OM1 needle meters. Also, the 4T (American version) or the 4Ti tends to show some battery drain issues. The 4Ti that I had some time ago ate up batteries like mad, even if I put it in B mode and did not shoot it, the battery went dead after a month or so and I checked by replacing fresh batteries. I had changed 10 batteries for my 4Ti but the batteries that I first inserted into my 3Ti are still working fine now. Notice there are no OM3Ts, the 3 series only came in OM3 and OM3Ti.
To be honest, the 3Ti is very outstanding except the advance lever is a little bit not as smooth as a Leica. Otherwise, I don't see that a Leica is far more superior than this Olympus. IF I really have to raise one more point, a Leica camera is better ergonomically if you mount a lens like the Summicron 8 elements on it. That setup is small and discreet and truly a joy to hold and shoot the streets.
That said though, the 3Ti feels very solid in the hands. It's tough and together with the 35-80mm F2.8 ED, it's quite heavy.
So how does it compare to an M-1?
Both the M-1 and the 3Ti are mechanical cameras. The 3Ti has a higher shutter speed of 1/2000s while the M-1 only supports 1/1000s.
Due to the age of the M-1, for certain lenses, the aperture and shutter speed rings might not move as smoothly as you can experience on a 3Ti. If that's the case it may require a CLA but most of the time but sadly that doesn't help much usually.
Also, the 3Ti gives you better control especially when you mount a heavy lens.
Take the example of the 35-80mm F2.8 ED, it gives you more confidence in using the lens if you have the hand grip added. On a M-1, you might find it a little bit hard to hold as the side of the camera doesn't give you much grip. For lighter lenses, they are equally good.
That said though, the advance lever of the M-1 is more pleasant to me. The 3Ti has a sturdier advance lever which makes cranking it a little bit harder. The M-1 advance lever is not Leica smooth but when compared to the 3Ti, it's lighter and more pleasant to use.
So what to look out for when you want to get a 3Ti?
Firstly it depends on whether you want to get the bundled set or what.
It's pretty rare to come across sales that sell a complete set, meaning boxed 3Ti with the 35-80mm F2.8 ED. I haven't seen one sold like this so far. If there's one, that will be very pricey too.
That means, you most probably need to buy the camera and the lens separately.
I got my set in the following order.
3Ti body with the white "Cheer up" strap and instruction manual. Then the grip. Then the lens. Then the hood of the lens. Then the focusing screen. The strap might not be the original one that came with the 3Ti but it's one of the best looking straps of Olympus.
Trust me, you do not want to the get the set in this way.
Firstly, the two most important things to look out for are the focusing screen and the grip.
MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THAT THE FOCUSING SCREEN IS THE CORRECT 2-13 SCREEN (embossed 2-13 on the tab of the screen compared to 13 embossed on the 1-13 screen) which should be the original screen that came with a fresh 3Ti. IF YOU BUY ON EBAY, YOU HAVE TO ASK THE SELLER TO SHOW THAT TO YOU OR ELSE YOU WILL REGRET. The seller who sold me the 3Ti either didn't know about the screen or he cunningly removed it for reselling.
The reason to have the screen is that it is way brighter than a normal 1-13 screen. It feels like it's one to two stops brighter. The overall viewfinder becomes super bright with this correct screen installed. Most importantly, it is FREAKING EXPENSIVE to get one. Only the screen can cost you 200USD.
Then, the grip. The grip is just a piece of plastic but it gives you better control. It's just plastic but this doesn't imply that they are easy to find individually and sellers usually sell it at a high price. My suggestion is, if you own a 4Ti with a grip and decide to sell it, keep the grip. If not, good luck or buy a 3Ti that comes with the grip.
Next, the 35-80mm F2.8 ED. Make sure you get one with the hood. It's because the hood rarely shows up individually in auctions. I luckily got mine separately before I got my second copy which came with a hood.
The completion of the set is quite meaningful to me. After all these efforts, I finally get a complete set.
One last thing, if you have the eyepiece you can add it to the viewfinder. It's compatible with all the OM cameras.
Also, if you have the hot shoe cover, you should remove it and keep it at home because it very easy to lose.
The set seems complete! However, I don't think I can get an empty box of the 3Ti and the 35-80mm F2.8 ED. My next target might be the pouch of the lens. Anyways...
I am happy enough to have these beauties.
Cheers,
Wilfred